Second speargun build

Made something extra cool or fixed something broken? Help a brother out!

Second speargun build

Postby lovettedive » September 6th, 2020, 7:01 am

Hi All,

New to the forum, thanks for having me. Sharing the second speargun I've made, 50" enclosed track. Was going smoothly until I took a big chunk off the blank, was routing out the trigger mech slot and the router punched through (on the wrong side, opposite the line release). Was torn between patching it with scrap wood or sanding down, ultimately went with the latter and I'm pleased with how out it came out though I would not choose to do it again. Hopefully it didn't create a weak point in the gun, will be trying it out in the water next weekend.

Blank is 4 lams, teak on the outside and padauk in the middle.
Posts: 4
Joined: September 2020

Re: Second speargun build

Postby Donzi Paul » September 6th, 2020, 11:10 am

it looks great buddy. :obscene-drinkingcheers:

Cheers, Don
Long Beach Neptune 1983 ...still
User avatar
Donzi Paul
sea slayer
Posts: 1416
Joined: July 2013
Location: Ca

Re: Second speargun build

Postby Behslayer » September 7th, 2020, 11:49 am

Nice Job. Don't worry about the divot taking away from strength you have plenty of sidewall there. I like the thumbwork you've done so far around the mech to smooth things out, the mech pin cover holes are a nice touch, but prevent you from removing the mech so they need to go. I know that Thumbwork sanding around the line release is tedious.. but you should move the ramp back a little so it's easier to get your shooting line back around the line release with a gloved hand. Get a Ruler and measure it out so it's symmetrical on both sides and maybe use a Dremel with round barrel sanding bit to remove some of the material and get a uniform shape and round to the ramp then hit it with the thumbs. Use heavy grit sandpaper for that stuff to start, like 40-60grit and then work your way up or it will take a life. It's great that you didn't seal that gun with Epoxy. First, it doesn't need it, but because it's your gun and build you can easily adjust things and shaping etc and then just brush on some oil. I like the Muzzle shape. Looks like you have room for a third band closest to the muzzle tip which might be nice if this is a 5/16" Shaft, or you could opt to use the third hole furthest from the muzzle as an optional 3rd band. 2 x 16mm small Id this gun would shoot a 5/16" or 3 x 14.5mm. One of the two most critical measurements in Speargun Building is the distance from the top of the band slot to the bottom of the shaft track. Smaller the better. The Band Holes are nice, but unfinished. I know you were worried about strength, but be more aggressive there. Look at a HATCH Rhino for inspiration. If you want that raise to be functional it will need to be deeper. Use a Dremel BArrel Sander Bit and deepen that up a bit. I don't see a Muzzle Line Channel? You won't need the Line Guide as it's Enclosed Track, but a Deep Line Channel is still necessary. Draw it frist with a Ruler and Pencil so it's straight and in the right place. Start the Cut with a Hacksaw Blade to depth and then round it out with a small circular file. Deeper is better. One other thing to consider is a Shooting Line diverter about 10" infront and below the Line Release. This will keep your Shooting Lines down and out of sight and away from your bands. Looks Like a THUMPER, and will be a good Lower Vis WSB Gun. If it were me, I'd rig with 2 x 16mm Small ID at High Stretch or 3 x 14.5mm and if it's a WSB Gun, go with 7.5mm or 5/16" threaded shaft with Mori Slip Tip. The other thing I'd put on that gun is a Reel..
Posts: 712
Joined: December 2013

Re: Second speargun build

Postby lovettedive » September 12th, 2020, 10:33 am

Thanks for all the advice Behslayer. Will post some more pics when I've shaped it up a bit more. I'm glad to hear that the shaping around the trigger won't pose a structural problem. As for the band holes and track, I will sand those down a lot more. Hatch really does an amazing job, those guns are beautiful. I had put in a nose line guide, it was just a little out of the muzzle picture above.

Why do you want to leave the trigger mech holes open/remove the mechanism? As stainless it should be fine in the saltwater, especially if you wash it down after each dive?

Wasn't aware about the top band hole to bottom of the track measurement, though now that makes a lot of sense. On my first gun that was probably ~2mm, on this one its probably 1/4-1/3".

Posts: 4
Joined: September 2020

Return to DIY's: Do it yourself

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users