ALL ABOUT REELS

All about spearguns and gear. Feel free to pimp your own manufacturing but be sure to wear flame retardant material if you are pushing b.s.

Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Schwaman » May 26th, 2016, 10:39 pm

Eric Bodj wrote:I like the attributes that john pointed out about the riffe vertical but I'm concerned that it might be a bit big for my 55" wong gr. Does anyone have experience with this combo? Also drilling holes into the side of my gun doesn't appeal to me much.

Does anyone have experience with the merou or Aussie reels? They both look pretty good. The merou is devised so the line cannot come off the spool and since around the like guide and the Aussie reel had a big following. One thing that concerns me is the ability to reel in the like without constantly hitting the drag knob like on my first gen Ulusub.


I like the Aussie reel best of all my reels (RA, Ulu, Meandros) because of one reason:
There is no gap betwen the gun stock and the reel whrere the line could catch. That i a little problem with the RA reels, never had that happen with the ulu, but have also not used it that much.
Both version of the aussie reel have that mentioned benefit. It is built very simple, about 5 parts in total and very sturdy. Rather on the heavy side, compared to a RA and ptobably 10-15m of 2mm line capacity less than a RA. The aussie fits around 40m of 2mm dyneema .
Since it is quite heavy and bulky, i dont use it on a 110cm for example. The version for woodies is lighter since it misses the lugs that go around the pipe.
If you want extreme line capacity, then the big ulu is offering that.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby castronova » May 27th, 2016, 4:50 am

I also love the Aussie reels. To be transparent I am a brand ambassador for them but I had a couple before that time, now I have a couple more. They are just so simple. The protrusions are not overly large and the reel drag works like it should. The capacity is pretty good too.

As for a belt reel, it is definitely the best in that category from what I know.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby John Hughes » May 27th, 2016, 5:03 am

[/quote]

I like the Aussie reel best of all my reels (RA, Ulu, Meandros) because of one reason:
There is no gap betwen the gun stock and the reel whrere the line could catch. That i a little problem with the RA reels, never had that happen with the ulu, but have also not used it that much.

this is key as most bad stories I hear about horizontal reels end up having this issue somewhere in the story. Once you get the line stuck between the reel and the stock there's not much you can do while the fish is still keeping your line tight.

It's great to get everybody's experience with these different reels. There's some out there I still definitely have to try out!
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby castronova » May 27th, 2016, 5:14 am

Something else on the Aussie as well...

The handle is also very tight and all one width so if line does wrap around it the line can just slide off. And line will not wrap around the drag knob either. If you use reels long enough you will eventually have loose line come off, a loose wrap, and the less it has to hold onto the better. The 3 spoke drab knobs like on the Wong/Red Tide reel and even the drag and to some extent reel knob of the Ulusub can catch line very easily. To me this is numero uno when looking at reels.

A reel with good design and the new stiffer spectra that Aussie is supplying as well as Benthic Ocean Sports will drastically lessen the chance of a tangle.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Freeryde » May 27th, 2016, 5:44 am

I too am a reel man. I just got back from the tortugas with three other free divers all using floatlines. The current was absolutely ripping so we were mostly diving under the anchored boat and then hanging on a long safety line made of a couple of ski ropes to rest and pull ourselves back to the boat. The other guys had a hell of a time with their floatlines and floats tangling each other and also the safety line. I put on a clinic with my big ulusub reel loaded with 300' of line. I was able to dive without dragging 120' of tangled line and float and therefore dive deeper and stay longer. By the end of the trip I had shot most of the fish and the other guys all said they were getting reels. I love the big ulusub reel and I also use the mori 3mm line in bright yellow although the ulusub line with the mono core in the middle is good as well.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Bill McIntyre » May 27th, 2016, 9:24 am

Eric Bodj wrote:I like the attributes that john pointed out about the riffe vertical but I'm concerned that it might be a bit big for my 55" wong gr. Does anyone have experience with this combo? Also drilling holes into the side of my gun doesn't appeal to me much.


I'm pretty sure it will work fine. When I got the first Wong shipped to California about 18 years ago, a 55" open track hybrid which is just like your gun except for the track, I asked Daryl if it would float with a reel and he said he didn't know since no one used reels in Hawaii back then. So I took it down the harbor, tied the reel to the trigger guard, and threw it in the water. It floated just fine, so then I went ahead and drilled the holes. If you want to be sure, you could do that too.

If you don't already, you might consider using threaded inserts and machine screws rather than wood screws. I've used those for all my reels of all brands, and you can remove and replace the reel without having a wood screw going in and out of the wood and possibly wearing out the hole.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Eric Bodj » May 27th, 2016, 11:56 am

That's a good idea bill, I'll have to try that before I drill into it. Yes I would use inserts.

Does anyone have any experience with Ashaway tuna cord? The guy who makes the Potts reels uses it, I'd be curious to know if anyone else has too.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby coreyf » May 27th, 2016, 12:17 pm

On a reel gun Bru.


attachment=4]IMG_0071.JPG[/attachment]




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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Aussie » May 27th, 2016, 5:05 pm

I used to always use a reel (but in australia I would have a floatline and float attached but only for boat safety and sharks, I would still fight the fish off the reel). I've now switched to running inline on all my guns except for when hunting wsb, i just couldn't fathom the idea of pulling a floatline through the water or hiking it up and down a cliff. Running inline for me is purely for safety and SWB. I still need to learn how to hunt with a breakaway for that day I shoot a big tuna.

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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Behslayer » May 28th, 2016, 7:25 am

To answer some questions above, our Generation 1 Reels were made from a solid block of Teflon. I was poking around the machine shop where we had our shafts threaded to size and I saw this big round solid billet of plastic looking stuff, so we threw it on the Lathe, then fabricated every other part by hand. In all of the cases mentioned above i.e. Wong, RA, etc. where your having any problem like drag tightening when reeling, or loosening when line is playing out it sounds like the D-Washer or whatever stop washer they use is worn out. Easy to fix or replace. With a compression drag system, that D or stop washer is what separates your drag knob from the spinning Round Washers and Spool. There is always a D Flat or U Flat on the Stem to hold the D or U Washer. Not sure if you see it in these pics, but there is a Flat Side to the Stem where there is no thread. If the D or U Washer strips, then you have the problem of the Drag knob moving with the Spool.

Ulusub developed the Gen 2 Co Moulded Stainless/GFN Reel @ 10 years ago. These use a simple compression drag on a stack of Self Lubricating Washers. Simple enough. We have two sizes. Reef and Bluewater. Reef holds @ 150' of 3mm and Bluewater holds around 275' of 3mm. Our line is a little thinner and the reels hold more. We make a Monofilamant cored Dyneema Reel line. I think it's the best line on the market, but so do others like Brian Yoshikawa, who know more than I do. I developed the line up the road with a local line manufacturer. I've seen some of the other lines out there and stiff... is not what you want. It kinks. and that is the problem. The single biggest problem with Reels is not the 1/1000 chance that a loop of line slips behind the reel, (In which case you grab the line from the line guide and swim up trailing it through your fingers, same as a band tangle) The biggest problem is Birds nests and Tangles in the line when you are fighting a fish, if you can make a line less likely to tangle, you improve any Reel.

The Big Bluewater Reels are great because they hold a Lot of line. Guys who dive deep love them for Reef fishing. Like my buddies in Hawaii who dive over 100' to shoot Uku. If you only got 150' of line and you shoot a fish at 100.. you are probably screwed.

Bill the idea of having you line break on purpose when you get spooled is the opposite of what I want to happen. I tie those knots carefully. I go through the hole and Around the Arbor. It's very very common even with a big Reel to get dragged around like a Waterskier by Wahoo. (To be transparent, I did lose a gun last year when I couldn't cut my line quickly, but that was more a fault of my knife sucking.) It's super important to have a good knife and even a back up knife when fishing with Reels. AND don't use one with big serrations. Those serrations are not your friend in cutting Dyneema.

Dam's story above is good to point out. The key to using Reels on big fish successfully is playing the fish and not pressuring them too much. But if there are Sharks around that changes things. I don't want a wahoo or Tuna to sound to 300' if there are sharks around.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Donzi Paul » May 28th, 2016, 7:32 am

Great thread. :obscene-drinkingcheers:

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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby jgrant » May 28th, 2016, 8:21 am

I really like this 100M ULUSUB reel. It's a giant reel as far as reels go, it weighs 1#, but fits well with the wide stock of the SS guns and looks very cool. Wanted to add that reel has a quality feel to it, simple and bomb proof. Have already emptied it a couple of times and quickly respools without problems. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
https://vimeo.com/168103518
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Bill McIntyre » May 28th, 2016, 8:26 am

Yesterday I was shooting at a target in the pool with Joe Newlon and saw his massive Ulusub reel. If I still used reels, I think I'd have to try that one.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Behslayer » May 28th, 2016, 9:26 am

Geez, I never thought our Reels were that giant, but I have big hands. I know there are many arguments against reels and bigger fish like Wahoo, but it sure is a rush to shoot one and fight it with a reel.

Where I learned to dive there was always a big surf exit and entry shore diving. It was unusual from most places in that the Surf was always. always. a factor, and it was a different kind of surf, that is tubular and crashes very concussively onto the sharp reef. The way you enter the water is by getting into cuts in the reef which are @ 3' deeper than the rest of the reef like lava tubes. These fill with water and currents raging in and out while the current from the waves sweeps sideways over them. As the waves crash on the reef you have a little more wiggle room to get closer to the impact zone and then swim fast through it. But there is always a huge current and it's sharp. So bringing a floatline and buoy was always a recipe for getting snagged up and pounded, losing your fins, mask, and taking a real beating. I made a Rashguard which had a pocket in the back so I could stash my Carter Float and a flasher or and then would use a Reel. If I was fishing the reef, it's impossible to use a float. Big waves going over you while you hug the reef aspetto, so you get out, blow up the Carter, and drop a Reef anchor outside the break. Or if Bluewater, you get to your spot and then blow up the carter and roll out your flasher. It was out of necessity to use Reels for this kind of diving with crazy shore entries. This lava is super super sharp. You need to be able to swim fast and be able to tuck away from the currents and swell to even access the diving, and once out there I don't think you could possibly catch some of the Wary snappers like the Yellow Lipped Longnose Emperor diving the reef there with a floatline they would never come close.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby John Hughes » May 28th, 2016, 11:58 am

Great input Jon, thanks. I was diving with my friend Brian last week who is a new owner of one (and one on the way) of your guns. I was fingering that reel line you have developed and have to say I like it. It was course enough to handle and on the bottom end (for me and my type of diving) of thick enough to manage while applying lots of pressure.

I'm going to give this Potts reel a go on my new blue water gun and if that doesn't suit my style, I'll give your big Ulusub a shot. Those reels do seem bomb proof and well made and obviously you guys are having great results with them.

I appreciate the point you made about what to do in the situation of a reel tangle as well. I honestly never thought about grabbing the line from the line guide and milking it off the spool from there as you ascend. If that was the only thing I learned from this thread it would be worth starting it. Thank you!

enjoying all the photos as well and great video jgrant! It's like you filmed my dream. :)
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby dustyyoungblood » June 1st, 2016, 6:35 am

but if i use a reel instead of a floatline where do I put my kelp carrot?
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Bill McIntyre » June 1st, 2016, 6:43 am

I'll take it.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Bill McIntyre » June 1st, 2016, 8:41 am

I can relate to Jon's point about the impossibility of using a float line for crazy entries over lava. In the early 60s when I lived in Hawaii, I did a lot of that sort of entry. When I think back on it, there is no way I could have used a float line.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby John Hughes » August 9th, 2016, 8:01 pm

I just won a 65" Hatch amero rear handle in a raffle and decided to put the big Ulusub on it. Really looking forward to getting it in Baja next week and trying it out on some larger grade yellows. I was a little surprised in only getting 155' of 3 mil line on there. I was expecting to get 200ish. I went big in case I get surprised on paddies by running into some unexpected tuna like I have in the past few years. I may have to change this over and try the thinner Ulusub line on this thing if I decide to keep this gun and increase capacity a bit.

I'll let you guys know what I think of the reel if I'm lucky enough to get into some fish.



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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby NaClAddict » August 9th, 2016, 8:45 pm

I'm kind of slow, so maybe someone can break down the reel tangle fix more simply? For a band tangle all I can think of is pulling back on the spear end of the tangle, taking the tension off the tangle and unwrapping from the bands.

If you throw a loop between the spool and the frame with a fish on I don't see what grabbing the line at the line guide does. I'm assuming we're talking about a reel line guide, not the type at the muzzle. Again it seems like you would have to relieve tension on the tangle and then untangle. Trying to work the tangle off under pressure seems to be asking to get a glove or finger caught in the tangle.

Can someone elaborate here?
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Freeryde » August 10th, 2016, 4:38 pm

I think you are talking about grabbing the line just I front of the reel when you get a band tangle so you can swim up with the line in your hand. The line coming off the reel will allow you to go up with a now doubled line going in a triangle from the reel to your hand and back down to the band tangle at the muzzle
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby John Hughes » August 10th, 2016, 7:12 pm

Joe has it right for a band tangle. In the case of getting a tangle at the reel inside of the line guide I think you're pretty much screwed unless you fluff a loop around the back and it gets cinched between the reel and the gun. In that case you should be able to grab right at the line guide and pull line off the reel as you ascend as Jon pointed out earlier. Hopefully anyways. :)

When you're talking tangles at the reel itself, it's usually caused by not winding your line on there tight or having your reel in freespool. That's why I'm super anal about both those items. I personally never freespool even with a bad shot and I'm always making sure my line is wound on there correctly. I'll even pull it all off and respool on the boat between fish alot of times.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby NaClAddict » August 11th, 2016, 7:22 am

Thanks John and Joe, I get it now. Everyone who has ever dove with me knows I'm a giant wuss when it comes to safety. I'd just like to take a moment to reflect part of my diving philosophy:

"All my gear belongs to King Neptune. It is only on loan to me and one day he will reclaim all of it. If I ever think I need to drop gear, I should have already let go."
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby John Hughes » August 11th, 2016, 8:28 am

I call being a wuss for safety being smart.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby growingupninja » August 12th, 2016, 9:47 am

One big advantage to floatlines nobody has mentioned is that when hunting deep (whatever that is for you), if you don't feel safe hauling the gun up you can just let it go, ascend, and pull it up from the surface. I wouldn't consider it a good habit to get into on the regular but for experienced guys I think most hypoxic incidents happen because the diver gets too attached to their fish, gun, or weight belt. I have also found that unless the current is ripping, my guns have less drag on ascent when I'm using a good floatline vs reel. Sharks are not a big concern for me out here so I also rig a partial breakaway so gun stays in the chain after firing, again so I don't need to worry about losing the gun or fighting fish at depth, or even swimming up with the drag of a gun. Can't beat a reel for convenience though and being able to get in and out of the water quick from a boat, and it looks better in photos/video. Anyway lots of good info here, thanks. I use both, even sometimes switching quickly between set-ups on the same gun when I move spots. My 2 cents.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby John Hughes » August 12th, 2016, 1:21 pm

good points Lance, thanks for chiming in. I'm not sure I agree with having more drag on ascent with a reel but I can see having more drag if you're carrying your gun as opposed to not :rofl:

I'd also have to agree with us having too much attatchment and being unwilling to let our gun/fish/belt loose. Always good to keep in mindand a good point.

One other disadvantage I've noticed lately using a reel is having an inability to let your gun go at any time. Usually about 45 minutes into a dive my sinuses will start to back up a bit. Being able to remove my mask and clear my nose of junk really helps. I usually just have to do this once a day. Boat diving it's not an issue as you are in and out of the boat. Being on a shoredive is different obviously as you are stuck in the water. With a floatline you just drop your gun and can retrieve it. With a reel you can't just do that. I usually just attatch my gun to my stringer on my belt and use both hands at the surface to remove mask and clear but I sure hate to do that when my gun is loaded. Makes me a wee bit uncomfortable.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby growingupninja » August 12th, 2016, 3:17 pm

The difference in drag may I find more noticeable on small guns which most guys would never put on floatline anyway. For deep hunting out here I like about a 75cm gun (love my Riffe 75, very slender for a wood gun) and the reel is wider than the gun. Might be better with a vertical reel.

As far as the putting the gun somewhere, I like to have a small tuna clip tied to my weight belt so I can clip my gun in by its butt loop if I need both hands, or if I need to clip myself to a rope/floatline hung off the back of my boat to reload in extremely brisk current. When I first started spearing Paul had talked about clipping a gun with a jammed reel and big fish to your weightbelt before dumping it, which I have never found practical in my epically long career of shooting GIANT fish but that tuna clip has sure come in handy.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Aussie » August 12th, 2016, 3:19 pm

I remember that day well, Hughsey. In fact I believe I took that pic, along with some others of you below. ;)

At that point my PB and only yellow was 6lbs. First day on the trip I shot a 51, also on a reel.

As you know I've since switched to a floatline in all situations bar kelp diving, but I wouldn't mind listing the pro's again (which are inversely the cons of a reel).

1. If you're spotting another diver on a drop being able to trace their floatline underwater is much safer. Especially in deeper or dirtier water.
2. In sharky water you can run your fish down your floatline and away from your body.
3. By running the gun inline your gun is always attached to your float so you can ditch it at any time. Especially if you need to conserve energy swimming back up. Just ditch the gun and retrieve on surface.
4. Shoot a fish underwater and if you get any myriad of issues you can drop the gun, people on a reel will risk blacking out before losing their gun.
5. If you're a deeper diver, or let's just say you do a 70' dive and shoot a screamer. you've got 70' of reel line to get to surface, plus how much line he spools swimming sideways or down. it's a race to the surface, i've been spooled before hitting the surface, not fun.
6. No matter what reel you use there will be some drag even when free spooling, this will make your ascent burn more energy and risk blacking out.
7. as others have said boat traffic. I use my riffe 2 atmos purely for high vis as it sits much higher in the water. Not only for boats and captain but fellows in the water, I also have a whistle and mirror on my float. I know a bunch of guys lost at sea, all on reels. Also in certain situations I have a backup 100 roller tied to the float if I need a second shot or want to take down a second fish.
8. A lot of less experienced divers have been blacking out and they're attributing this to reels (back home). If someone is new I politely suggest they start with a float line and then consider switching later.

On the subject of reels though I find reel line to be the most critical factor. I loath almost every line on the market accept for this one brand of spectra. It takes in a little water and is heavier but it doesn't tangle or birds nest. I know you like the mori thicker line but it's a fraction too thick for me at 2.5 or 3mm (and double or triple the price). The stuff I buy is about $US30 from a sailing shop in australia for 100m. That's about $10 for 100'. Here are the specs;

2mm x 100Mtr Spectra Braid 100% Polyester Jacket with SPECTRA Core Solid Colours (Black Tracer) ; Red, Yellow, Green, Blue, Black Break: 260Kgs

I use the yellow as it's very easy to see.


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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby John Hughes » August 12th, 2016, 8:03 pm

Aussie wrote:I remember that day well, Hughsey. In fact I believe I took that pic, along with some others of you below. ;)

At that point my PB and only yellow was 6lbs. First day on the trip I shot a 51, also on a reel.

As you know I've since switched to a floatline in all situations bar kelp diving, but I wouldn't mind listing the pro's again (which are inversely the cons of a reel).

1. If you're spotting another diver on a drop being able to trace their floatline underwater is much safer. Especially in deeper or dirtier water.
2. In sharky water you can run your fish down your floatline and away from your body.
3. By running the gun inline your gun is always attached to your float so you can ditch it at any time. Especially if you need to conserve energy swimming back up. Just ditch the gun and retrieve on surface.
4. Shoot a fish underwater and if you get any myriad of issues you can drop the gun, people on a reel will risk blacking out before losing their gun.
5. If you're a deeper diver, or let's just say you do a 70' dive and shoot a screamer. you've got 70' of reel line to get to surface, plus how much line he spools swimming sideways or down. it's a race to the surface, i've been spooled before hitting the surface, not fun.
6. No matter what reel you use there will be some drag even when free spooling, this will make your ascent burn more energy and risk blacking out.
7. as others have said boat traffic. I use my riffe 2 atmos purely for high vis as it sits much higher in the water. Not only for boats and captain but fellows in the water, I also have a whistle and mirror on my float. I know a bunch of guys lost at sea, all on reels. Also in certain situations I have a backup 100 roller tied to the float if I need a second shot or want to take down a second fish.
8. A lot of less experienced divers have been blacking out and they're attributing this to reels (back home). If someone is new I politely suggest they start with a float line and then consider switching later.

On the subject of reels though I find reel line to be the most critical factor. I loath almost every line on the market accept for this one brand of spectra. It takes in a little water and is heavier but it doesn't tangle or birds nest. I know you like the mori thicker line but it's a fraction too thick for me at 2.5 or 3mm (and double or triple the price). The stuff I buy is about $US30 from a sailing shop in australia for 100m. That's about $10 for 100'. Here are the specs;

2mm x 100Mtr Spectra Braid 100% Polyester Jacket with SPECTRA Core Solid Colours (Black Tracer) ; Red, Yellow, Green, Blue, Black Break: 260Kgs

I use the yellow as it's very easy to see.


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Oh you fugger, you had to throw down the bikini shot!! :owned: :bowrofl:

More good points. I think I'm convinced I'll be switching to a floatline now :sad-roulette: Wait, NOT.

I like the way this thread is heading, keep em coming and let people make up their own minds. That was an unforgettable trip Tanc. I'm headed down next week to see if I can better it. :) And just so people know what was going on with the bikini......Hunting Cabrilla in 80 degree water in a surf suit with no butt pad is more than a beating. It's nice to have something under there to tuck your flip flop on your chest to keep the bruises to a minimum. Baja engineering at it's best :gay:
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Behslayer » August 13th, 2016, 5:23 am

When I'm diving the Reef, abrasion resistance is the key, but once you get in to the blue, more line is the key. You still want to be able to grab it, but I've found I can clamp my hands down on line over 2mm diameter.

One trick for using Reels so you can get your hands free. This doesn't work for Aspetto bottom hunting, but in that case you will usually have a Float anchored nearby to attach to, but when in the Blue or Mid Water diving, take a Yozuri type rattling lure which sinks fairly well, the it to the butt of your gun with some Mono like 50-80lb. Give enough room to clear the tips of your fin blades when you tuck that lure into your belt. I use a loop of dyneema on my belt. I stiffen this by wrapping with electrical tape or sheathing with some tubing. This way I can just drop the lure into the loop and it will toggle and is easy to come out. If I want to be hands free, or if I want to freestyle swim, or if I want to porpoise to the surface my gun trails under my fin blades. Also, it's a very effective Gun flasher and with thinner mono has a lot of action. The other benefit of the thinner mono is that if I ever purposefully want to snap the line I can. Sometimes if I'm with a good fish on I'll remove this flasher. I use a Swivel clip. I can take it off real quick and stash it in my suit etc. If I know I'm in for a battle with a lot of Reel line around I'll need to make sure the Flasher line doesn't tangle in the Reel line, but it's a non issue once you recognize it and you can make the decision to keep it on or take off for the fight.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Nate Baker » August 13th, 2016, 7:04 am

Aussie wrote:8. A lot of less experienced divers have been blacking out and they're attributing this to reels (back home). If someone is new I politely suggest they start with a float line and then consider switching later.


This is probably a good idea.

John Hughes wrote:Oh you fugger, you had to throw down the bikini shot!! :owned: :bowrofl:


I thought that was a sports bra and spanks. You're getting a little old for a bikini. B) :p

It's nice to have something under there to tuck your flip flop on your chest to keep the bruises to a minimum. Baja engineering at it's best :gay:


Great tip! I usually fold up a T shirt into a pad and slide it under my suit top. I look ridiculous, but only my buddies laugh at me. The fish don't care.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby NaClAddict » August 13th, 2016, 9:46 am

Aussie wrote: A lot of less experienced divers have been blacking out and they're attributing this to reels (back home). If someone is new I politely suggest they start with a float line and then consider switching later.

...

On the subject of reels though I find reel line to be the most critical factor. I loath almost every line on the market accept for this one brand of spectra. It takes in a little water and is heavier but it doesn't tangle or birds nest. I know you like the mori thicker line but it's a fraction too thick for me at 2.5 or 3mm (and double or triple the price). The stuff I buy is about $US30 from a sailing shop in australia for 100m. That's about $10 for 100'. Here are the specs;

2mm x 100Mtr Spectra Braid 100% Polyester Jacket with SPECTRA Core Solid Colours (Black Tracer) ; Red, Yellow, Green, Blue, Black Break: 260Kgs

I use the yellow as it's very easy to see.


Are a lot of these newer divers taking free diving classes? I hear more stories of new divers who have taken free diving classes having blackout or near blackout experiences. These classes appear to emphasize pushing boundaries a little too far. I will admit, I haven't taken a class, only talked to some friends who have.

Also, I think that same type sailing line is available at West Marine.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Aussie » August 13th, 2016, 11:14 am

NaClAddict wrote:
Aussie wrote: Are a lot of these newer divers taking free diving classes? I hear more stories of new divers who have taken free diving classes having blackout or near blackout experiences. These classes appear to emphasize pushing boundaries a little too far. I will admit, I haven't taken a class, only talked to some friends who have.

Also, I think that same type sailing line is available at West Marine.


Thanks re sailing line. I have a ton and since switching only use it for kelp but it might be good for others.

Re freediving classes. I don't think they are, I will say that I think in part you're right but it depends a lot on the instructor and how bullheaded the student is. Especially if he's young. And I say he because the girls are too level headed to BO. IMO it has more to do with social media. You get these rock stars posting videos of shooting fish at 100'+ and all of a sudden these young guns think, hey, I can do that. (Hence why on my freedivers group bottom times and depths are banned from being mentioned). A fatal mix of testosterone and inexperience. In OZ (not sure if it's the same here) when you get your learners riders licence for a motorcycle you're restricted to a certain engine capacity for the first three years because you get these 18 year olds who think they're invincible (I certainly did). Maybe we should limit young guys to 30'? ;)

I don't think Socal has much of an issue because most of the diving is relatively shallow (perhaps with the exception of OC where guys are digging out fish at 50'+. But now that I think about it we've had 4 fatalities in the last 3 -4 years that I know of, all divers with 15+ years experience, the last in PV in 20' which I called in myself after seeing a boat on the same spot for two days in a row. It's now known as Deadman's corner. :ugh:

If I can post a derail for a second, check out this video that came out of OceanSide 3 years ago. I consider these two guys my friends and I've asked before for permission to post. In short they did absolutely everything possibly wrong and for all intents and purposed this guy should be dead. The rescue diver was only there because he shot and missed a fish and went back to tell his buddy. The diver was on one of his first dives of the day and said he didn't push it overly hard. After that it's a cluster fuck of errors. Both divers have since taken courses.

And cue Billy Mac for his alternate opinion. :)

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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby phil herranen » August 13th, 2016, 1:21 pm

Reels are awesome.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby John Hughes » August 13th, 2016, 5:20 pm

phil herranen wrote:Reels are awesome.


Already been discussed Phil. You need to use the proper reel line. See the photo on page one :)
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby phil herranen » August 13th, 2016, 5:26 pm

John Hughes wrote:
phil herranen wrote:Reels are awesome.


Already been discussed Phil. You need to use the proper reel line. See the photo on page one :)



That is a neptonics shipping problem , when I carefully went to put the loose coil I got onto a big spool ,I got around 800' on the spool and then in a half second the other 300' turned into a birds nest , the first thing I thought of was this thread .
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby John Hughes » August 13th, 2016, 7:04 pm

phil herranen wrote:
John Hughes wrote:
phil herranen wrote:Reels are awesome.


Already been discussed Phil. You need to use the proper reel line. See the photo on page one :)



That is a neptonics shipping problem , when I carefully went to put the loose coil I got onto a big spool ,I got around 800' on the spool and then in a half second the other 300' turned into a birds nest , the first thing I thought of was this thread .


ouch.

I was looking at that Neptonics line just yesterday in their new shop. Do you have any experience with that stuff in the water Phil? I'm wondering if it does the same thing when it's pooled up at the surface?

I was surprised I only got 155' of Mori 3 mil on the large Ulusub. I'm definately headed towards some thinner diameter line to load up capacity. I may either go with that Neptonics stuff or try the stuff Jon at Ulusub uses and swears by. Any feedback from anybody is appreciated.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby phil herranen » August 13th, 2016, 8:05 pm

It acts the same as the thinner orange line , I use it for shooting line when I need something stronger than mono but I don't want to or can't use cable .

I really like the mono core spectra usub makes , espicialy as a mono shooting line replacement , the stiffness makes it much less likely to tangle
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Bill McIntyre » August 14th, 2016, 8:27 am

John Hughes wrote:
I was looking at that Neptonics line just yesterday in their new shop. Do you have any experience with that stuff in the water Phil? I'm wondering if it does the same thing when it's pooled up at the surface?



I haven't used it for reel line, partly because I do it the right way and use a float line. But I've recently rigged a couple of guns with it as shooting line and have shot a couple of yellowtail. So far I like it. And I think it is even more visible than the Momoi.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby John Hughes » August 14th, 2016, 12:24 pm

Bill McIntyre wrote:
John Hughes wrote:
I was looking at that Neptonics line just yesterday in their new shop. Do you have any experience with that stuff in the water Phil? I'm wondering if it does the same thing when it's pooled up at the surface?



I haven't used it for reel line, partly because I do it the right way and use a float line. But I've recently rigged a couple of guns with it as shooting line and have shot a couple of yellowtail. So far I like it. And I think it is even more visible than the Momoi.


OK thanks guys. I don't see a knot Bill. Did you backbraid that somehow?
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Bill McIntyre » August 14th, 2016, 12:42 pm

John Hughes wrote:
OK thanks guys. I don't see a knot Bill. Did you backbraid that somehow?


Just like the Spectra on a slip-tip.

But if you want to be sure, do it this way. Just make sure you set aside an hour or so the first time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zpsItnF ... e=youtu.be

I did that, The second gun went faster than the first, but its still not like crimping mono.

So now I'm compromising and leaving out the Brummel Lock. I'm not shooting giant tuna, and I'm pretty sure the Chinese fingers effect will hold it. But the danger is that the pull will somehow be concentrated on the side of the line that runs down inside with no force on the long side to cause it to grip. So I'm using waxed whipping twine to tie a constrictor knot at the top of the splice. If I'm right, then the knot will keep it from starting to slip out before the Chinese fingers effect takes hold.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Aussie » August 14th, 2016, 4:05 pm

Bill why wouldn't you knot it like dynemma? Also gave you noticed a change in performance? Assuming it's not a big arse gun you should be getting better penetration.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby phil herranen » August 14th, 2016, 4:13 pm

Aussie wrote:Bill why wouldn't you knot it like dynemma? Also gave you noticed a change in performance? Assuming it's not a big arse gun you should be getting better penetration.

Back spliced line holds 100% of line strenth , a knot can cut the strenth by as much as 1/2 depending on the knot and line
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Bill McIntyre » August 14th, 2016, 4:18 pm

Aussie wrote:Bill why wouldn't you knot it like dynemma? Also gave you noticed a change in performance? Assuming it's not a big arse gun you should be getting better penetration.


I don't think that hollow core stuff knots as well as the filament core, and what Phil said.

I haven't noticed any change in performance since the only fish I've shot with it are using the Spectra. I did try the gun in a pool using mono and it was amazingly accurate and penetrated well 20 feet from the tip, but I haven't been back in the pool with the Spectra and I doubt that I'd notice any difference.

I tried this stuff for two reasons. Its 1000 pound test vs. 400 for my mono, so if a tuna attacked me I'd be better off. And it much more resistant to abrasion than mono. I assume that you didn't read that rigging for tuna thread, but Mike Morgan said that he loves this stuff in Baja. With mono he would have to keep changing shooting lines when it got dragged through the rocks, but he never has to change this stuff.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Freeryde » August 20th, 2016, 3:37 pm

the big ULUSUB reel is the best. It will hold over 200' of the 3mm Mori line or even more of the ULUSUB line. The ulusub line has mono inside of the spectra to give it memory and tangle less
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby NaClAddict » August 22nd, 2016, 11:48 am

Why do most reels come with a line guide? I never had a problem with ones that didn't. To me the line guide is just one more thing to tangle the line on. I also really like the idea of the line being able to flow off like when you cast a spinning reel. The line guide is usually a totally separate piece, increasing drag creating another gap for the line to get caught in. Reel experts chime in.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby John Hughes » August 26th, 2016, 10:19 am

Freeryde wrote:the big ULUSUB reel is the best. It will hold over 200' of the 3mm Mori line or even more of the ULUSUB line. The ulusub line has mono inside of the spectra to give it memory and tangle less


I just got one of those big Ulusubs Joe. I was only able to put 155' of Mori 3 mil line on there. Since I bought that reel for more capacity, I changed it out and put some 2.5mil on it I got from Matt Lopez at Red Triangle Spearfishing. I was able to get 240' of the 2.5 on there. I'll post some pictures of this stuff when I get them downloaded. It's super tough jacketed dyneema I think.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby John Hughes » August 26th, 2016, 10:28 am

NaClAddict wrote:Why do most reels come with a line guide? I never had a problem with ones that didn't. To me the line guide is just one more thing to tangle the line on. I also really like the idea of the line being able to flow off like when you cast a spinning reel. The line guide is usually a totally separate piece, increasing drag creating another gap for the line to get caught in. Reel experts chime in.


I think it depends on how you actually apply the brakes to your reel line. If you palm the reel to slow the fish I don't think you need to use the line guide. I like to fight the fish from the line in front of the gun so I prefer using the line guide so if the fish pulls more than the line that is already pooled out on the surface, the gun stays inline and I can catch it in my fist and let it take more line if needed. Damn that was a long sentence. LOL. I sorta explained that in one of my examples on page one. I suppose you could still fight the fish from the line as it comes off the spool but doesn't seem as smooth to me with your gun perpendicular to your fighting fish if that makes sense.

Even if you don't use the line guide, if your reel has a guide on it like most I wouldn't want the line coming off the spool and then potentially ripping 90 degrees across that guide on the reel. Just me but bottom line is I think it's a preference thing.
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Freeryde » August 31st, 2016, 7:49 pm

John Hughes wrote:
Freeryde wrote:the big ULUSUB reel is the best. It will hold over 200' of the 3mm Mori line or even more of the ULUSUB line. The ulusub line has mono inside of the spectra to give it memory and tangle less


I just got one of those big Ulusubs Joe. I was only able to put 155' of Mori 3 mil line on there. Since I bought that reel for more capacity, I changed it out and put some 2.5mil on it I got from Matt Lopez at Red Triangle Spearfishing. I was able to get 240' of the 2.5 on there. I'll post some pictures of this stuff when I get them downloaded. It's super tough jacketed dyneema I think.


I have not been keeping up with this great thread so I just saw your post. I have many different reels and all of them have the Mori 3mm line cause it's the best! It's so course and thick you can put the brakes on a big fish with no slip through your hands and it never knots! I do have the ulusub monocore line on the big ulusub reel just for capacity for blue water only. It has a good amount of memory/rigidity due to the monofilament core which helps to prevent knots and accidental tangles in the water.

On another note I use floatlines a lot for shooting big grouper in Florida and the Bahamas and it sure sucks dragging that line up and down on deep dives. The only reason I use the floatline there is to be able to stop the fish with a float from the surface and land it quickly. At Many of the spots we dive you only have a minute or less to get on your fish before it is ripped to shreds by the Sharks or swallowed whole by a 800lb jewfish. We do not have these concerns in CA
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Re: ALL ABOUT REELS

Postby Freeryde » August 31st, 2016, 7:56 pm

phil herranen wrote:
Aussie wrote:Bill why wouldn't you knot it like dynemma? Also gave you noticed a change in performance? Assuming it's not a big arse gun you should be getting better penetration.

Back spliced line holds 100% of line strenth , a knot can cut the strenth by as much as 1/2 depending on the knot and line


This does not apply to dyneema right? I know mono strength is greatly compromised by an overhand knot but I don't think the same holds true for spectra etc. Even if it did the overhand knot would be in the doubled portion of the line if it was like the slip tip hollow spectra so it would not affect the overall breaking strength right?
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